The 2022 Riesling Bockenauer Felseneck Kabinett is from the poor
slate-based soils because Fröhlich believes that slate and Kabinett go
together. It was harvested across three terraces where the vineyard
turns a corner towards the southwest. It benefited from the evening
sun and racier acidity than the fruit from the purely south-facing
parcels. This is what is destined for Kabinett in Tim Fröhlich’s eyes.
There is still a little sulfur on the nose, but underneath, there is
electricity. This crackles with acidity, super-slender, light, vivid and ohso-bright. It was harvested early from a site that guarantees proper
ripeness so the wine can get away with its sharp acidity. It's very light
and almost impossible to split. Once spat, the lemon zestiness remains
vivid, pervasive and thrilling. (Medium)
Anne Krebiehl - Vinous Media (93)