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The 2022er Goldgrube Riesling, as it is referred to on the consumer label, is a bone-dry wine made from fruit harvested on up to 120-year-old un- grafted vines and was left for 1 year on its gross lees. It has a beautifully and finely reductive and very herbal nose of minty thyme, rosemary, white pepper, spearmint, flintstone, and other wild herbs, before showing fine scents of white flowers and lime tree. The wine starts off on a slightly round and creamy side, yet an acidic backbone clearly comes through and leads to a straight and quite spicy long finish. This defies the richer side of the 2022 vintage and proves superbly refined and playful. The aftertaste is all about smoke and white flowers and proves bone-dry in taste.
The Grand Cru dry wines of Weiser-Künstler are among the most cerebral dry Rieslings made in the Mosel. They are wines of meditation, wines that seem to have something more to do with distillates or teas made from stone, ore and flower. They have very little easy fruit to hang one’s hat on. In other words, they are among the most thrilling wines from this fabled place.
The 2022er Enkircher Steffensberg Im Löwenbaum Riesling Spätlese was made from fruit harvested at 87° Oechsle on old vines still trained on single pole in this prime Lieu-Dit at the heart of the Steffensberg and was fermented down to sweet levels of residual sugar (62 g/l). The wine offers a still rather backward nose made of pear, vineyard peach, apricot, cream, and spices. The wine develops the characteristic “orange-tangerine” touch on the palate which adds depth to the creamy and nicely zesty experience. The overall balance is one of subtle elegance and depth with a nice kick of zest to lift the flavors in the finish.